Biotechnology and Food Science

Bufadienolides - natural, biologically active compounds for medicines and cosmetics. A review.

Kamil Szymczak, Radosław Bonikowski — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

Toad skin secretions are a rich source of various biologically active compounds, such as alkaloids, bufadienolides, biogenic amines, or peptides. Also plants from Hyacinthaceae and Crassulaceae can be a potent source of these groups of molecules. These compounds play a crucial role in amphibians’ and plants’ physiology such as defense against predators or pathogenic microorganisms. Among them, bufadienolides are the focus of many researches in recent years. These molecules have a very interesting, steroidal chemical structure and have potent activity at the cellular level. They possess cardiotonic, antiviral, antibacterial, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, hemostatic, bacteriostatic, wound-healing, and antiparasitic properties. Although the structures of about 500 bufadienolides are known, it is strongly suggested that this group of compounds is still very poorly examined. Moreover, bufadienolides may be an excellent basis for the chemical synthesis of new drugs with selective bioactivity. The aim of this paper is to briefly overview bufadienolides as potent compounds for medicines and cosmetics.

Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics

Katarzyna Mietlińska — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

The cosmetics market is an extremely dynamic, developing branch of the industry. There is a constant need for multifunctional ingredients that will meet the growing expectations of consumers. Active ingredients of natural origin are also appreciated more and more often. One of the most commonly used plant extracts are those rich in polyphenols. These ingredients are known for their antioxidant properties, but they can have many more functions in relation to human skin. They act against wrinkles, brighten skin, support protection against harmful UV rays, etc. Other interesting active plant ingredients are saponins – compounds with an amphiphilic structure – that can be natural alternative to surfactants or emulsifiers. They possess antimicrobial activity and strengthen blood vessels. This article briefly characterizes polyphenols and saponins, taking into account their structure and classification, as well as indicates and describes their properties that can be used in the cosmetics industry.

Antioxidant properties of Moringa oleifera and Withania somnifera extracts and their use in cosmetics for men

Adrianna Jezierska, Anna Sykuła — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

Nowadays, men are paying more and more attention to their appearance, and thus try to provide their skin with proper care so that it looks healthy and without signs of aging. In the present study, ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) and moringa oleifera (Moringa oleifera) were selected from the most popular adaptogens used in cosmetics, which are currently not commonly used in cosmetic preparations for men. The selected adaptogens were compared for their phytochemical and antioxidant properties to determine their skin care effects in cosmetics. The phytochemical content was evaluated through the determination of total phenolic content and in vitro antioxidant capacity was determined by DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and ABTS{2,2′-azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)} free radical scavenging tests. The total phenolic contents 1.81±0.13 and 0.14±0.02 mg GAE/g extract were found to be present in Moringa oleifera and Withania somnifera glycol-water extracts, respectively. Among the two chosen extracts, Moringa oleifera exhibited significant free radical scavenging activity, ABTS (0.964 ± 0.021 mg TE/g extract) and DPPH (0.822 ± 0.004 mg TE/g extract). It can be concluded that Moringa oleifera extract has strong antioxidant properties than Withania somnifera extract.

Antioxidant potential of selected herbal plants from various cultivation systems for cosmetic purposes

Dorota Mańkowska, Kacper Klepacz — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

The aim of this study was to determine the value of the antioxidant potential of several domestic herbal plant species derived from conventional and organic crops, which, due to the content of valuable biologically active compounds with anti-inflammatory properties, can be used in the production of cosmetic preparations. The antioxidant potential of methanol extracts of the tested plants was determined using the FRAP method with ascorbic acid as a standard. The content of antioxidants in the studied plants ranged from 1.121 to 13.228 mg/g for samples from conventional crops and from 1.559 to 19.327 mg/g for samples from organic farming. Greater biological value of extracts obtained from plants grown in an organic system than in a conventional system has been indisputably demonstrated. The obtained research results may constitute an incentive for producers of cosmetics to choose native organic plants for the production of their products.

A comparative analysis of European and British cosmetic products legislation

Patrycja Kramarczuk, Krystian Gałęcki — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

Due to the withdrawal of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland from the European Union (EU), cosmetic products made available in this country are no longer subject to European legislation, but to British cosmetics law. The exit process (Brexit) was a rather chaotic event with not fully known consequences. The legal changes brought about by Brexit are difficult to understand for many cosmetic companies. Therefore, the aim of this work was to compare and demonstrate the legal differences between European and British cosmetic law, resulting from the withdrawal of the United Kingdom from the EU. The main differences concern the issues related to the responsible person, notification, documentation and labelling of the cosmetic product.

Application trial of a simple spectrophotometric method in determination of sun protection parameters of selected sunscreen cosmetics

Anna Madanowska, Agnieszka Kowalska-Baron — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

Knowledge of the sun protection factor SPF of a sunscreen product is essential for the safe use of solar radiation. In Poland and in the European Union, in vivo method is used to determine the SPF. This method is time-consuming, expensive, does not ensure repeatability, and raises ethical doubts. Therefore, instrumental methods that can replace the traditional in vivo method are sought. In this study an attempt to determine sun protection parameters, such as SPF, degree of protection against UVA and critical wavelength of selected sun protection cosmetics was made with the use of a simple spectrophotometric method based on measuring the absorbance of ethanol solutions of selected sunscreen cosmetics. The obtained results may be useful for future development of a new in vitro method for determination of sun protection parameters of sunscreen cosmetics.

Development of a recipe and production method for enzymatic hand peeling

Beata Smolińska, Monika Wyżykowska, Kamil Krzysztof Rożniakowski — Sun, 01 Jan 2023 00:00:00 +0100

The study focused to develop an enzyme hand peeling. The first stage of the investigation dependent on selecting the qualities that the cosmetic should have. When creating the product, the assumption was made that it would have an exfoliating, moisturizing, firming and even-toning effect. The peeling was developed in several stages starting with the consideration of the cosmetic formulation, the selection of suitable raw materials and the execution of the formulation according to the adopted method. For the preparation of the peeling, the emollients used were so-called oily emollients, including sweet almond oil, Shea butter, coconut oil, oil/water (O/W) emulsifier, stabilizers, moisturisers, rheology modifier, filler, active substances, preservative and solvent. The peeling was prepared on the principle of O/W emulsion. The formulation was made using the classic "hot" method. More than a dozen trials were performed to obtain a product with the desired properties. Subsequently, the peeling was subjected to sensory and hedonistic analysis. Its density, viscosity and stability were evaluated. The formulation was also tested for pH.

The final scrub was characterized by an intense but pleasant fragrance, very easy spreading on the skin, light texture, pleasant sensation after use. Hedonistic research has shown that obtained enzyme peeling was fully acceptable in terms of application, color, consistency and feelings after use. The final cosmetic product was also characterised by poor moisturisation and too strong abrasiveness.